What should I consider before buying?
How much should I spend? How much is too much or too little?
Where should we install the hot tub?
What should I consider when positioning the spa?
How much will it cost to operate?
What is hydrotherapy?
How is the spa insulated? Is foam filled a better insulator?
What does the pump’s horsepower rating mean?
Does the square footage of the filter mean cleaner water?
Does a bigger pump mean a better massage?
Does an air therapy system provide a better therapy experience?
Do I need to install plumbing?
How do I clean and sanitize the water?
Can I use the spa during cold winter weather?
What are the electrical specifications of the spa?
How is the water temperature controlled?
Is the spa protected from freezing?
Do I need an electrician to connect the spa?
How important is the warranty?
How involved is the maintenance of the spa?
How long will it take for the spa to reach desired temperature?
How do I drain the spa and how often should I do this?
What should I consider when placing the spa in position?
What should my filtration cycle be set at?
How do I know the ozone is operating properly?
What health and safety precautions should I be aware of?
What are the electrical specifications of the unit?
Why are the pumps “humming” after filling
the spa?
What are the large control knobs on the lip of the spa?
Why are the large control knobs (diverters) difficult
to turn?
What are the smaller knobs on the spa lip?
There is one jet I would like to turn off, how do I do
that?
How do I change the spa’s operation when I’m
away for several weeks?
How do I winterize my spa?
Why is my spa water cloudy?
Why is my spa water foamy?
What are the white “paper-like” particles
in my spa water?
How do I clean the spa cover?
What is the puddle of water around the spa?
Why does my breaker keep tripping?
How can I test the GFCI?
Should I treat the natural cedar cabinetry with a sealer?
You may consider “wet testing” a spa before purchasing.
This means getting into a spa with water in it. Many reputable spa retailers
maintain filled demonstration models just for this purpose. If your
favorite spa model is available only dry in the showroom, still crawl
into the seats and consider the following:Verify that the seats provide
comfortable support and a size that fits your body. You do not want
to have to tuck yourself down into the spa to stay in the warm water;
the water should reach shoulder level. If it does not, you will not
get full hydrotherapeutic value and may become chilled during the cold
winter months when enjoying your spa is prime. For a wet test, stay
in the spa with the jets on for at least 15 minutes. Move around in
all of the seating arrangements. At the end of that time you will know
whether the seating and jet arrangements are comfortable. Remember that
just because a spa looks comfortable it may not necessarily be for your
body-type. Also keep in mind that your body becomes buoyant in the warm
moving waters and a deeper knee angle on lounges helps you to stay in
place during your soak.
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Quality spas are available in a wide range of prices. Just like cars,
spa prices reflect features, materials and workmanship. Of course, we
hope that you will compare many spa brands to a PDC Spa and realize
that they are of the highest quality and value on the marketplace. No
matter which brand of spa you purchase, you should be an informed consumer
and find the spa that is right for you. Remember that if the deal seems
too good to be true, it probably is. Many spa builders cut corners in
their manufacturing to offer a lower price forsaking the strength and
reliability of the unit. Look for a good warranty, a manufacturer that
has been in business for a long period of time, and a retailer that
is knowledgeable and provides service after the sale.
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Many buyers do not get the full enjoyment from their new spa because
of poor site planning. Privacy from neighbors, distance from the home
and many factors contribute to the appearance and ultimately the use
of the spa. Think about the location and sit in chairs where you plan
to place your spa and observe your surroundings. You will be glad you
took the time to plan properly while sitting in the perfect spot on
your property.
A spa can be installed indoors or outdoors, although over 95%, including
those in cold weather climates, are installed outdoors. Main considerations
for installing a spa indoors, in a screened porch or a sunroom, are:
will it fit through the door, is the structure strength of the flooring
adequate, and is drainage and ventilation adequate. Be sure you have
adequate ceiling height for cover removal. A typical 3-person spa weighs
approximately 2,500 lbs/1,150 kg when filled. Be sure that the hot tub
will fit into the space and that the path to the area is possible not
only for the size but including a dolly and delivery men needed to move
the spa into place. The best case scenario for any hot tub in a room
is a tiled floor with a floor drain. We also recommend a dehumidifier
to get all of the moisture out of the room. The flooring should be outdoor
water friendly materials. You will get water on the floor through splashing,
every time you exit the spa, and with each person in the spa that much
water is displaced and could end up on your floor. You should also consider
the unlikely event of rapid spa drainage. You can use a wet vacuum to
get the puddles up or with a floor drain you can squeegee the water
into the drain. Always check the load characteristics of your floor.
The structure must be able to withstand at least a constant load of
100 pounds per square foot. Contacting a professional to confirm this
is recommended.
For an outdoor hot tub, a level concrete slab or wood deck is appropriate.
This surface should be able to withstand a minimum load of 100 pounds
per square foot. Pavers and or a stone base deserves consideration as
they have a tendency to shift over time. Do not place your spa directly
on sand or grass. Your spa should be on a concrete pad at least 4”
thick and have footers on the edge below frost line. The standard size
for a concrete slab is 8’ x 8’ although depending on the
size of your spa, arrange for a considerable amount of the base to extend
beyond the cabinet sides and end cabinet, to allow for easy mobility
around the unit. Also consider additional space required for the cover
removal device. Installing your spa on a wooden deck is probably the
most common spot for installation. A concrete slab is not needed if
the deck is of adequate strength.
This question is answered in more detail in our Planning Guide found
on this website. Download the file and print the document for reference.
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Our units look fantastic and are easiest to service when access is available
from all sides of the hot tub when the unit is sitting above grade.
If you feel you must sink the hot tub in a deck or limit the access
to the unit you may incur costly repair bills and inconvenience when
attempting to gain access to its components. This type of install is
not recommended at PDC. Since we make such a variety of hot tubs it
is always best to check with your PDC Spas consultant before you decide
on a restrictive location or paint yourself into a corner. Call us,
we will be glad to help you find the right model that suits your location
needs. If you choose a unit with an end cabinet, leave ample access
for servicing and with a slimline unit, the best scenario is to have
all four sides of access panels within easy reach. Also consider the
seating arrangement of the spa for an easy “step into” spot
and also the view from each of those seats. If you purchase a cover
removal device, allow for an additional 24 inches in the back and at
least six inches on each side for the pivot bar.
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It will depend on the usage and size of your unit. On average, people
spend about a dollar a day to operate their spa. Your usage, climate
and cost per KW hour will all contribute to the operating cost. All
PDC Spas come with economy modes of operation and feature superior insulation
to reduce energy consumption and make using your hot tub more comfortable
all year round. If you were to ask, “how much gas am I going to
use in this new car?” the answer might be similar. Depending on
how often you use your spa, what the outside temperature is, how long
each spa usage is, etc. The cost of operation varies. Most spa owners
expect about $1 per day for electricity in the North East. That is about
the same as a refrigerator. And since when did your refrigerator give
you a massage?
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Hydrotherapy is the combined effect of heat, massage, and buoyancy.
Warm water dilates blood vessels, increasing blood flow to sore or damaged
tissues, allowing oxygen and nutrients to help overworked muscles recover
faster. Massage, provided by the spa’s jet system, relaxes tense
muscles and relieves pressure on surrounding nerves. Massage also improves
circulation and accelerates the body’s natural healing process.
Buoyancy reduces your body’s weight up to 90%. This relieves pressure
on strained joints and muscles. Hydrotherapy is widely recognized as
an effective method of alleviating the tension commonly associated with
stress.
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Many of today’s manufacturer’s use an insulation technique
known as foam-filling which consists of spraying the entire inner area
of the spa with foam insulation that becomes a solid. This is done for
several reasons, NONE of which are for the benefit of the customer.
Full foam hides manufacturing defects that can cost the owner plenty
of money during ownership. Poorly fitted plumbing can cause leaks and
are hidden deep in the foam of which has to be removed to access the
leak. Which ends in a costly repair bill and areas void of the removed
insulation. Manufacturers that use this process depend on the solid
foam as a factor of strength to save money on fiberglass and resin as
the spa shell strength.
The best insulating factor in all applications is a dead air space trapping
warmth and recycling waste heat. PDC Spas builds their spas with this
in mind with the TemperLock system utilizing a reflective thermal blanket
that traps heat between the spa shell and the cabinet wall, and recycling
the pumps heat generated during operation. This blanket is easily lifted
to access all plumbing and keeps the spa stronger yet lighter in weight
than a foam-filled unit.
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There are two kinds of horsepower ratings applied to spa pumps: “Continuous
Duty ” horsepower and “Peak” horsepower (also called
“Marketing” horsepower). Continuous Duty is the horsepower
the motor is capable of producing while the spa is in operation. Brake
is the amount of horsepower the motor produces on start-up before dropping
to the Continuous Operating rate. Beware of the claims of huge numbers
of HP that simply refer to the Marketing HP and not the true reflection
of the water flow during operation. The most important item to know
is the proper pairing of number of jets and GPM (gallons per minute).
This is a measurement of actual water flow and thereby a measurement
of hydrotherapy. More horsepower does not mean more therapeutic value.
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More filters or larger square footage filters do not mean cleaner water.
Maximum water filtration on PDC Spas is accomplished thru a main filter
located on the pressure side of the pump forcing the spa water thru
the tine pleats of the filter trapping debris. Water does not bypass
the filter as in other suction-side systems. A filter is simply used
to take out contaminants, hair, skin cells and contaminants that have
been burned up by the water sanitizer. Filters have nothing to do with
sanitizing your water. You will notice that many manufacturers over
compensate in filtration and have up to five filters in their units.
Filters need to be replaced annually and this cost (up to $50 per filter)
should be accounted for when you calculate the total operating cost
of your hot tub. Maintain a level of ozone and bromine, when needed,
and keep your filter clean for simple maintenance and assurance of crystal
clean water.
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Many manufacturers talk about the horsepower of their pumps. Horsepower
can be measured using a “peak factor” or a “continuous
duty” system. The first describes the initial thrust as the pump
first engages, but immediately the pump output falls to a lower, continuous
horsepower level. When a spa manufacturer claims they have a 6-hp pump,
they are describing the “initial thrust” not the horsepower
the pump delivers as it runs. Efficient plumbing, better jets, and flow
control are more important than horsepower. A lower horsepower pump
in a more efficient spa will produce just as much jet power as a higher
horsepower pump. And remember, you are looking for a comfortable but
strong massage, not for a punishing hot water experience! Consider the
GPM rating as a trued measure of effective hydrotherapy not the HP rating
that is so often misconstrued by other manufacturers.
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An air therapy system often referred to as a “bubbler” is
an integrated channel system in the spa shell that actually blows warmed
air through a number of small outlets; up to 70 on some PDC Spa units,
that deliver a soft “all-over” body massage. This is a general
massage with total water movement as opposed to the often too strong
pinpoint action of powerful jets. This soothing effect is something
you should not miss in the whole hydrotherapy experience. This is more
costly to build and most manufacturers choose to talk their customers
out of it.
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No. All above-ground portable spas are filled with water using a garden
hose. It is recommended to empty and refill the unit annually, at least.
The procedure is simple and quick.
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Proper water maintenance is vital to enjoyment of your spa. While some
salespeople may try to convince you that they can sell you a “chemical-free”
spa, professional retailers and manufacturers most often recommend the
use of ozone purification in conjunction with sanitizers developed specifically
for spas. Maintenance procedures are not difficult, and knowledgeable
retailers will provide the start-up kit and instructions you need.
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Your hot tub is an ALL season product. Use your hot tub anytime of the
year and anytime of the day! Most hot tub enthusiasts will agree that
the winter time is the best time to be in a PDC Spa. The cold winter
air will not affect you when you are in the swirling warm waters of
your hot tub. You may think that you will not use it in the winter time,
but you will find that this is not the case once you experience the
therapeutic benefits of a soak in frigid cold weather. Did I mention
that it’s cool to have snow accumulate on your head while the
rest of you is toasty warm in the hot tub? Enjoy the daily benefits
of hydrotherapy and know that your PDC Spa is constructed of the highest
energy efficiency standards possible. Remember to keep your spa cover
closed when not in use.
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Typically all of our hot tubs are 220V – 50Amp requiring installation
with an approved G.F.C. I. breaker. For specific information and an
illustration of a typical GFCI installation, go to the support section
of this site and download the document for your electrician’s
reference. A licensed electrician is required to properly bring power
to the unit. The 50 amp requirements and installation of the spa may
be more costly than a cheaper 110V plug-in unit, although for proper
heating and simultaneous pumping action you will be satisfied with the
higher amperage draw.
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Most quality spas have relatively sophisticated digital thermostatic
controls. These highly reliable modern systems are capable of keeping
the spa water within one degree of any temperature you select. While
this is important for comfort, it is also important for safety. You
should pay particular attention to the control system if you have children
who will be using the spa. Better systems have safety locks and digital
readouts. A good indicator of the control system’s quality is
to read and compare manufacturers’ warranties. In the beginning,
you should start your unit at 98-100°F. Once you are accustomed
to this temperature, you can adjust up or down to get to the temperature
that is perfect for you. This is mainly personal preference, although
you should not stay in the hot tub for longer than 10-15 minutes at
104°F. If you are pregnant you should limit your time in the spa
and reduce the temperature. If you have any health concerns, consult
your health care professional before you get into the hot tub.
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Most quality spas have built-in freeze protection with the modern digital
control systems. With PDC Spas, rest assured that all controls offered
have this feature.
Consult your owners manual (can be downloaded on
this site) for further details and call 1-800-78-GECKO with any questions
you may want to direct to the manufacturer.
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Yes. All spas require the unit to be properly installed according to
all national and local codes by a qualified electrician.
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Here are a few simple rules to keep in mind: A product warranty is a
performance and reliability agreement between you and the manufacturer.
Make sure you read the manufacturer’s warranty before buying,
and compare coverage with other spas you are considering. A lifetime
warranty is very misleading and varies from state-to-state with most
states limiting the coverage to seven years. Choose a manufacturer who
has been in business for a longer period of time and therefore proven
their commitment to customer care.
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A minimum amount of care goes a long way in maintaining your hot tub.
Regularly used hot tubs take minimal maintenance. Check your PH weekly
and keep the PH balanced at 7.2. Clean your filters as needed with a
pressure garden hose, cleaning between the pleats. A filter cartridge
can last for months when properly cared for. You can use filter cleaner
( nothing that causes sudsing) and soak the filter overnight if necessary.
It is recommended to replace your filter annually. Your spa will need
to be drained and refilled on a regular basis. This time frame depends
on your water quality and amount of use. It could range from as much
as every three months to annually. Before you refill, swab down the
water line with a non-abrasive, non-sudsing cleaner. The correct chemicals
and accessories along with other tips on the proper maintenance of your
PDC hot tub can be found in your owners manual.
Download your copy on
this site.
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Initially, your hot tub will take 5 to 14 hours to warm to a suitable
temperature. This will depend on your starting water temperature and
the ambient air temperature. It is best to warm your hot tub with the
cover on and leave the cover securely locked on the unit when you are
not using it. It is far more efficient to bring your spa to desired
temperature and maintain the temp as opposed to decreasing the temp
between soaks and waiting (and paying) for the water to get to temp
for each use.
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All PDC Spas come with drain valves that are located in the base of
the spa or as a hose bib on the AdvantagePack. Simply remove the service
panel or end cabinet and attach a garden hose to the valve, turn it
to flow and release the water from the spa. You must first reduce the
temperature setting to the lowest point and disconnect power to the
spa at the GFCI breaker before draining. Most manufacturers recommend
draining and cleaning your spa no more than 3 or 4 times per year, depending
on how frequently you use it and how well you maintain your water. In
most cases, this simple process will only take about an hour to accomplish.
Details on this procedure can be found in your owners manual. Remember
to open the head screw on the filter lid and open the hose bibs to release
any trapped air that could “lock” your system’s flow.
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Our units look fantastic and are easiest to service when access is available
from all sides of the hot tub when the unit is sitting above grade.
If you feel you must sink the hot tub in a deck or limit the access
to the unit you may incur costly repair bills and inconvenience when
attempting to gain access to its components. This type of install is
not recommended at PDC. Since we make such a variety of hot tubs it
is always best to check with your PDC Spas consultant before you decide
on a restrictive location or paint yourself into a corner. Call us,
we will be glad to help you find the right model that suits your location
needs. If you choose a unit with an end cabinet, leave ample access
for servicing and with a slimline unit, the best scenario is to have
all four sides of access panels within easy reach. Also consider the
seating arrangement of the spa for an easy “step into” spot
and also the view from each of those seats. If you purchase a cover
removal device., allow for an additional 24 inches in the back and at
least six inches on each side for the pivot bar.
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The amount of spa usage will determine what your filtration cycle needs
to be set at. As a general guideline is to begin at 14 hours a day.
If the spa water is cloudy, additional time should be added to the filter
cycle. Consult your control manufacturer at 1-800-78-GECKO for programmed
filtration cycles and periodic purging offered on the spaside digital
controls.
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During the filtration cycle, check the front of the ozonator for a green
light. If the green light is lit on the ozonator, it is in proper operation.
The ozonator will be located on the side of the spa with the equipment.
Remove the panel and notice the ozonator is in a blue plastic housing
attached to an upright support.
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Check to be sure that the spa you buy is listed by a recognized independent
testing agency such as UL or ETL.
Use a qualified electrician to connect the electrical service to the
spa.
Make sure the cover comes with a locking system to prevent unauthorized
use. Many spas feature locking control panels, as well.
Keep appliances and other electrical devices away from the spa area.
Always observe the warnings about spa use by small children, pregnant
women, people with certain health conditions and people under the influence
of alcohol or drugs.
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Typically all of our hot tubs are 220V – 50Amp requiring installation
with an approved G.F.C.I. breaker. For specific information and an illustration
of a typical GFCI installation, go to the support section of this site
and download the document for your electrician’s reference. A
licensed electrician is required to properly bring power to the unit.
The 50 amp requirements and installation of the spa may be more costly
than a cheaper 110V plug-in unit, although for proper heating and simultaneous
pumping action you will be satisfied with the higher amperage draw.
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Bleed air out of the black valve on the top of the filter and open the
hose bib until you get a steady stream of water. For pumps 2 & 3,
unscrew the unions on the return side of the pumps slightly to let any
air out that might be locked in the system.
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These large knobs are called diverter valves (Ultra Massage Selector).
Depending on what spa you have it will either have one or two of these,
measuring about 4 3/4” in diameter. These knobs control water
flow to specific spa seat zones. By having the knob in the center position,
water flow is balanced between two zones. Turning the knob in either
direction causes the water flow to be diverted to that seat section.
This allows you to choose a powerful or more gentle massage.
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The diverter valves will be difficult to turn when the pump is on. These
valves could be adjusted when the pump is off. If the valve is difficult
to adjust even when the pump is off, there is probably debris in the
control. The sand or grit can be removed by first turning off the spa,
removing the handle and unscrewing the cap. Remove the diverter assembly
and clean. Reverse the steps to re-assemble.
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These controls are termed air controls which introduce outside air into
the jets increasing the jet action. There will be several of these on
your spa. They can be used not only to adjust the jet pressure, but
also to reduce the spa water temperature if desired.
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The majority of jets can have their intensity lowered by turning the
jet counter-clockwise. Most of the jets can be nearly closed off entirely.
Jets in the neck collar on certain spa models do not have the ability
to shut completely off.
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You can back your temperature down although maintaining your desired
normal operating temperature is not a problem. When you return from
vacation, simply resume your normal chemical routine. Do not add more
chemicals to “catch up”! Make sure your cover is in place
and locked to prevent unwanted guests in your absence.
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We highly suggest you enjoy your spa during the winter months as this
is claimed by many spa owners to be their favorite time for a warm soak.
If you must shut the unit down for the season, refer to your owner’s
manual for the detailed section on winterizing your spa. You can download
the manual from this site.
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Check your filter for cleaning or replacement. Consider adding more
time to the filter cycle and shocking the water with bromine or chlorine
after heavy use. Consult your user’s manual for specifics.
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Foam is normally caused by skin lotions and creams and cleaning agents
from bathing suits. Purchase a de-foaming agent from your spa retailer
which easily treats this.
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The usual cause of white floating particles is known as bio-film. Bio-film
grows in the pipes of your spa when it is not used often or filtered
and cycled properly. Begin by replacing the filter cartridge, then add
twice the amount of recommended shock. Turn on the pumps for about 30
minutes for circulation of the shock through all of the pipes. Clean
the filter cartridge. Repeat as necessary until the water is cleared.
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The surface of the cover is a marine grade naughyde that is mold resistant.
It is designed to withstand the outside elements and could be cleaned
with an auto interior cleaner and moisturizer. To prevent the cover
from fading, you may use a UV inhibitor. The brand we recommend is called
“303 Aerospace Protectant.”
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The water could be from condensation on the cover, or simply from users
getting in and out of the spa. Mark a starting point of the spa water
level and keep track of it for a day to see how much water you are losing.
This will help you determine if you should have a leak. Always check
your filter lid after changing the filter to assure that it is installed
correctly. An improperly seated O-ring can often times cause this puddling.
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Have a qualified electrician inspect the connection of the breaker immediately.
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GFCI breakers may appear different depending on manufacturer, but all
have a test, reset button. Simply press the test button and the spa
should shut off. To reset the breaker, press the breaker to the “off”
position first, then back to the “on” position. If after
the pressing of the test button the breaker did not turn the spa off,
discontinue the use of the spa immediately and contact a qualified electrician.
Testing of the GFCI is recommended prior to each use.
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Depending upon the look that you want, there are different recommendations.
Cedar is naturally rot resistant and resistant to moisture damage. It
will naturally gray as it ages. If you do not like this appearance,
apply a clear sealer or a sealer with a stain if a different tone is
what you desire.
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